Oahu Revealed - Royal Hawaiian (Sheraton)

529 rooms, 2 pools, 3 spas, 24-hour room service, free room safes, coffee makers in rooms with free coffee daily, 37-inch flat screen TVs, hi-speed Internet access in rooms, Wi-Fi in public areas, business center, 4 conference rooms, valet parking, a dozen shops, free state-of-the art fitness room, day spa, 2 restaurants, lu'au, valet-only laundry (or use the Sheraton Waikiki coin-ops). There are almost 100 places to stay in Waikiki, but if pressed, we'd have to say the Royal is the premier property. Back when they built this place in 1927, there was only one other hotel—the nearby Moana. Royal's developers had their pick of where to build, and they chose this part of the beach. And no wonder—this is probably the best stretch of Waikiki--surfable waves offshore and sandy nearshore waters. (though the water tends to be oddly cloudy here). Also, this area is the heart of Waikiki with tons of stuff to do nearby, yet it's insulated from busy Kalakaua Avenue by the Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center. By location alone they stand apart. But it gets even better when you add the fact that it's a 6-story, low-rise building with pretty grounds that have plenty of breathing room, dominated by some old, meandering trees--popular for weddings. The result is a less bustling atmosphere than many of the nearby tower-dominated resorts.

Known locally as the Pink Palace, every shade of pink imaginable is represented--that's their trademark. Of the two buildings, we recommend the "historic" low-rise. Although the rooms are slightly smaller than the tower rooms, they're more quaintly decorated in keeping with the early 20th century style. Renovations, completed in 2009, had stunning results. Pink is now being used as more of an accent color, and they added new modern, but small, bathrooms. The common areas of the resort also look much brighter and fresher. They have some nice touches like sit-down check-in, fresh banana bread in your room and $200 hair dryers that dry your hair 60% faster (hairstylist not included). Tower guests enjoy free continental breakfast. Their Royal Beach Club cabanas (not actually on the beach but directly adjacent) come with their own concierge to fetch you anything you want (for an extra fee), like food, drinks and books (which they'll even read to your keiki). At $500 per day these cabanas don't come with many freebies, just water, fresh fruit and juice. Instead of staying overnight, you can have a romantic dinner for two at the cabanas for $250 plus the food. Their multi-level pool is shared with the Sheraton Waikiki, has a water slide and can be busier than their own pool.

If you want your ocean views a bit more unobstructed, go with the tower rooms. They're comfortable (though the plumber must have been a munchkin, because they mounted some of the showerheads at 5 feet). Almost none of the rooms have lanais (except for the 17-story "new tower" built in 1969).

It can take up to 20 minutes to get your car from the valet ($29 per day), so call them way in advance or simply park it yourself for $20. Their Mai Tai Bar is right next to the beach. Ask for a plastic cup and you may be able to take your drink away to the beach, which is technically illegal but rarely enforced. (And you're a rebel anyway, aren't you?)

With a location like this, they can pretty much charge what they want and get it. But staff does a reasonable job, and you have signing privileges at all the other Sheratons in Waikiki.

Rates are expensive, but you can always get a package of some kind. Starwood Preferred members get 30-35% off rates listed below at this Luxury Collection property. Rooms vary in size from around 330-540 sq. ft. and are $560-$920. Suites (1,717-2,000 sq. ft.) are $1,150-$5,500.

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